I find myself, more and more, taken by the textural presence of wine. As I continue to steer the Panier program into larger and larger format bottles, I’m finding that the freshness and youthful intensity of many of these wines lifts the pleasure and experience of trying them by-the-glass, even when their vintage may be considered “young.”
This week, I’ve sourced two 9L Salmanazars of one of the most intriguing and special Rosés I’ve ever tried: Cibonne’s old-vine Tibouren. From their unique Mediterranean microclimate to the year-long aging under fleurette (in massive, old foudres), there is not really a wine like this one. I’ve loved it since trying it in 750mls some years back at Flatiron Wines; I’ve never had a chance to try it out of large format.
It’s a fairly limited cuvée, with intense depth and complexity even in its youth. There is always a structure here that most Rosé wines never achieve—and yet, there is always still the same saline quality that brings great refreshment to the palate.
I’m beyond excited to try this wine out of 9L – it should be a standalone experience, and should open up beautifully as the week goes onward. Hope to have you in.
THIS WEEK’S POURS
Tues (6/8) – Sun (6/13)
Clos Cibonne, Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes Rosé
Côtes de Provence 2018
Poured from a 9-Liter Salmanzar