There are few things in the world of wine I love more than Muscadet with at least a little age (if not a lot!) – particularly paired with all varieties of creatures from the sea. As it ages, the texture that already defines it simply deepens and broadens with such elegance. Being a Mainer at heart, I’ve always loved seafood the most, even on the Fourth of July. Thus, I thought we’d drink Muscadet here at Bar Boulud all week long – including on the Fourth, as we’re open and celebrating here. I’ve got multiple 3Ls of one of my favorite producers, Domaine de la Pépière, in the cellar, and I thought this week was the perfect week to open ‘em all.
Marc Ollivier has been making this wine for longer than the cru of Clisson was made official – exposing the importance of the “granite de Clisson” soil that makes the Melon de Bourgogne grown here markedly unique. This compact granite gifts the wines grown here with a particularly vivid mineral character – which texturally evolves with bottle age. The wine is pressed whole-cluster, aged on lees for two years in large vats and bottled without fining or filtering. This is clean, gorgeous wine with certain creaminess to the mid-palate, surrounded by the brightness of minerality and acidity.
These wines are about purity and freshness, reflected in the ease of drinkability. They are precise and not pretentious; elegant in their simplicity. They are perfect with everything from oysters without frills to more robust fish dishes, as they match everything fresh seafood has to offer. For me, they also always remind me of the Atlantic Ocean…though I grew up on the other side, these wines are reminiscent of the salt air I know so well.
I hope you’ll come join me some day this week for a perfect summer glass. Santé!
ALL WEEK LONG
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet “Clisson”,
Loire Valley 2015
Poured from a 3-Liter Jeroboam