The sticky humidity has come to stay here at 64th Street, so I felt it made sense to keep celebrating refreshing rosés while the heat remains.
This week, after closing briefly on Monday, we’ll reopen Tuesday and pour a wonderful example of Californian rosé from two brothers well-known in our wine industry: Eric & Lyle Railsback. Both worked in restaurants for many years, with Eric following in his brother’s footsteps and ending up making his own mark. Now he’s seemingly everywhere: from directing Verve Wine’s California operations to running Lieu Dit winery, amongst many other projects. Lyle does national sales for Kermit Lynch and is also an illustrator who—with his wife Victoria James—fairly recently published a book all about rosé.
These gentlemen are a great example of the intriguing evolution of our industry: as one sells, tastes and comes to know the great wines of the world, one hones in on the possibility of trying one’s hand at creating the very thing that drives one’s earlier career. I spoke with Eric recently, and he told me it was essentially a no-brainer for he and Lyle to make a rosé. They grew up drinking it often, before it hit the peak of popularity it’s enjoyed over the last decade. Back then, though, it wasn’t taken as seriously here in the US. As it is becoming more and more accepted (and understood) that rosé can be serious wine, the brothers want to “bring the focus of well-made [rosé] here…to help educate Americans and keep the conversation going.”
Even today, for many, rosé is merely seasonal, as well as uncomplicated: just light, easy fare. This is not the only truth, however, and the brothers’ inspiration for their rosé is perhaps the most famous of all: Domaine Tempier in Bandol. This is one of the great stalwarts of Kermit Lynch’s book, and has long been a soulful standout amongst sommeliers for reds and rosés both. Lyle’s longtime position has offered him a particular connection and insight here—and they chose to name their rose “Rascasses” (meaning “Scorpion-fish”) in reference to—according to Domaine Tempier matriarch Lucie Peyraud—the most important ingredient in one of Provençe’s most important dishes: bouillabaisse.
It is this sort of cultural intelligence that crafts some of the most intriguing wines one can offer. I’m delighted to pour Les Rascasses out of Magnum all week long, to highlight its depth and complexity (great with our food here) as well as its easy quaffability (great on its own, as well).
I’m super excited also to have Lyle in house on Thursday for a couple of hours (starting around 5:30) to pour his rosé and talk about it. Come visit!
TUESDAY (08/27) – SATURDAY (08/31)
Railsback Frères,
Rosé ‘Les Rascasses’ Santa Ynez Valley 2018
SUNDAY (09/01)
Comte Abbatucci,
Corsica Rosé ‘Cuvée Faustine’ 2016